Top Bar Beekeeping at Hirschbach Apiary

A biological approach to beekeeping using top bar beehives
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Feeding bees with Fondant
Key to Hive Survival
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Working a TBH with Spacers
Straight Comb
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 WORKING A TBH 
 
 
    TBH hives are ideally worked from the rear, which is another reason I like end entrances Standing behind the hive remove the lid exposing the bars. I use a pocket knife to pry up the bar closest to the rear. Start from the sides and work it loose. Holding the ends of the bar with your fingers lift it out straight up so as to not break any comb that might be on it. There is probably no comb on this bar especially if you have a large volume hive. There may be comb on this bar if you built a smaller volume hive (see plans). If this bar has comb and is stuck or cross combed do not worry you are harvesting this one anyway, cut it out if necessary. Once you have this space opened up you have your working space. Remove two or three bars if it is easier for you. Once you have that done then the next bar can be loosened, inspected and slid to the rear. A long knife comes in very handy to cut attachments or cross combs loose, ideally there should not be any but that is in a perfect world!
   Working a TBH this way allows the front part, usually where the brood nest is, to stay dark and calm. You do not alert the whole hive all at once! You should not need any smoke provided you are just looking. If you plan to do an in depth inspection smoke the entrance for a few seconds and insure the smoker will stay lit you will need it later.
 
The above picture is a result of splitting the brood nest in late spring. the depth is 16 inches and the bar length is 24 inches.

The below picture is comb from the above hive.
 
Inspecting bars

    When you lift a bar out of the hive never rotate the comb parallel to the ground new comb will break remember there are no frame sides or bottom to support the weight! The bar can be rotated clockwise or counter clockwise as if you were looking at a clock on the wall following the second hand. To see the other side simply turn it around either while the comb is hanging or upside down. REMEMBER how it came out because it must go back in the same way!

Closing up

    Now that you are done you have to close everything up. One problem you will encounter is the row of little eyes watching you at every gap you opened. Many beekeepers have pushed bars back together only to be horrified by the sound of crushing bee bodies! There are a number of ways to handle this situation.

    
     1. Smoke! I told you, you would need it later and as you look at it, it is probably stone cold!
     2. A spray bottle with water.
     3. Gently blow on them, be sure you have a veil on sometimes this really makes them mad.
     4. Sprinkle powdered sugar on them with a shaker it helps with mites and drives them down into the darkness.

    Regardless of what you use you will push the whole cluster of bars you have accumulated at the rear forward at the same time. Push the gap where the bees are closed a little at a time as the opening gets snugger and snugger they will move down be patient.
 
OR
Use the TBH with spacers hive design!


Harvesting honey
 
    When you decide to harvest honey from a TBH have a clean container with a lid. remove the bar you wish to harvest and brush the bees back into the hive. I put the bar up aginst the side of the container and then lay the container on it's side. Working inside the container I cut the comb off the bar leaving 10 cm or so attached as a guid for the bees to rebuild from. Stand the container back up and lay the newly harvested comb on the bottom and you are ready for the next one. I find that cutting this way prevents the comb from ripping once you start cutting and preserves the look for cut comb honey.

    For bottled honey you will have to devise a press your imigination is your only limit. For an example of a honey press see this link : http://www2.gsu.edu/~biojdsx/press.htm

 

  To prevent a "honey bound" condition (i.e., not enough empty comb available as laying space for the queen), the brood portion of the hive can be supplied with additional bars, to allow the bees to construct new combs within the nest. This provides ample laying room for the queen and reduces congestion during the spring buildup. (as discussed on the previous pages)


Here is another method of "extracting" natural combs, once described by the late Mr. Allen Latham in his famous bee book:

    Take a large container, such as a pail or drum, and droop strainer cloth (about the mesh of fly-screen or a little larger) across it, hanging down about halfway. Nylon mesh is a good material for this. Secure the cloth well with close pins, drawstring, tape or whatever, around the edge of the container, to ensure it will not sink down in any further.

    Next construct a simple square wooden frame which will fit over and around the top of the container snugly. Staple or tack 1/2" mesh hardware cloth (metal screen) across this frame. Set the frame onto the pail or barrel, over the drooping strainer cloth.

    Now..."extract!" Simply lay a large piece of honeycomb on the screen surface, and using a wooden paddle or other implement, mash the comb through the screen. This is easy and rapid. The crushed wax and honey falls down into the strainer cloth, and you proceed with several more combs until you have loaded up the strainer well. Cover it up and put it in a warm place, and over the next couple of days, almost all of the honey will drain through the wax and down past the strainer into the pail. It is remarkable how well the wax will "drip-dry" of honey this way, especially if the unit is kept warm. A number of the units can be made up very inexpensively to handle even a fairly large crop.

    The unit can be set into a warmer made up of an insulated box or modified old refrigerator, with the heat provided by an appropriate arrangement of light-bulbs. Just don't let it get too warm! A temperature of about 100 degrees works out well.)

    After pretty much all the honey has drained (2-3 days), lift the strainer cloth with its mass of wax out of the pail, and then treat the drained honey as you would any that came out of a centrifugal extractor. The cloth containing the wax can be tied and hung out near the bees, which will collect much of the residual honey through the material. Then the wax is ready for rinsing and melting into cakes.

    This method is quick, neat, and reliable, as long as the honey is not unusually thick or granulated. (Not to mention--it's cheap!) The finished product will not look any different from honey taken from an extractor, and will retain its fine, fresh aroma and flavor.

    The framed hardware cloth atop the container serves to rupture all the cells thoroughly as the comb is mashed, so that draining is very efficient.


Another way to support the mashed comb in the strainer for draining is as follows:

    Cut a round piece of the same 1/2" mesh hardware cloth, the same diameter as the inside diameter of the pail about halfway down. Tack this round piece of metal screen to some wooden legs or a frame which, when placed down into the pail/barrel, will hold it about half way up off the bottom. Then you droop the strainer cloth down in over it as described above. The round piece of screen will thereby act as a sort of "table", inside the pail, supporting the weight of the wax/honey mash, and letting the honey pass through.

    Note: Some of your harvested combs are bound to be of very high quality particularly attractive, and they can be cut to fit into cut-comb honey containers. The leftover scraps can then be processed into liquid honey as described above.

    As with any extracted honey, a froth of air bubbles and wax particles will rise to the surface of the honey over the ensuing days or weeks. This is skimmed off prior to warming and/or straining a second time through fine mesh such as nylons. The honey can then be bottled as desired. The froth skimmed from the honey can be recycled and not wasted, by feeding it, undiluted back to your bees!

Oops!

    In the event you do something to upset the hive, say… drop a bar or crush a bee and open it back up to do emergency life saving procedures (LOL). STOP what you are doing, put everything down and walk away. Give them an hour or so and go back and start over. How do you know you are in trouble?

    1. There is a bee inside your veil. If one is in there more will come!
    2. You can’t see what you’re doing because of all the bees pinging off your veil.
    3. You’re getting stung more than ten times.


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