Then add the width of all bars and spacers, in this case there are 16 brood bars @ 1 inch, 35 spacers @ 1/4 inch and 18 honey bars @ 1 and 1/4 inch so the total is 3'-11 and 3/4 inches this is the length of the side boards and will be the total INNER length. The width of the sides is determined by the depth of the center of the hive, in this case 12 inches.
When you have the ends and sides done assemble the body keeping everything tight to the bottom outside corners. The sides naturally won't reach the top.
END PLATES
Now to determine the depth find the center of the top. In this case we have already determined it will be 18 inches, so measure over 9 inches to the center and drop a straight line down to the desired length, 12 inches in this case. Looking at the markings on the wood you should see a T.
To find the bottom, on paper I pulled the center line down and the end lines down until they made a triangle. measured 12 inches down the center to see what it would be and decided that 7 inches was a bottom and would make a decent size entrance (if an end entrance was used).
Now that you have the top and bottom lines on wood you just have to connect the ends to get the sides. The length and angle work themselves out. Here the angle (inside bottom) measures between 112 and 113 degrees.
Shown above the end plate sits on the bottom board and 1/4 inch has been cut to make an entrance.
Bottom Board
To make the bottom sit the assembled body on a piece of wood at least 6" longer. Cut 2" strips of whatever you have and keeping tight to one side frame the bottom out leaving one end open. You can modify this bottom for a screen if you wish. I do not use any.
Bars
Cut the bars from pressure treated wood or some type of hard wood. Because I use spacers I do not cut a kerf or use a comb guide. I just rub wax on the bottoms. Keep it simple!
3D Shots
When you make the bars make them flush with the top of the end plate. Put all bars and spacers in the hive. Now make a frame around the bars. Secure the ends of the frame to the front and back first REMEMBER to keep the frame higher than the bars ( the height is determined by what you will use for an inner cover. Measure the inner surface and cut your inner cover. Now you can make whatever type of lid you want. (In the bottom left picture the inner cover should be covering the tops of the end boards as it all should be flush.)
Pictures
Here are some shots of the hive body. My hive is comprised of three main parts. The body, bottom board and cover. (The cover will just be a flat piece of ply wood that overhangs all sides).
This is the front with landing board, frame around bars and inner cover. A piece of wood screwed to the body rests on the bottom board to provide extra stablization. On the left the inner cover is pulled back to show the bars and spacers.
There are 16 - 1 inch bars for the brood nest and 18- 1 1/4 inch bars for the honey storage area. There are 1/4 inch spacers between each bar, aginst both the front and back walls
This shot above shows the bars, frame, spacers and inner cover. The idea is to install the bees, pull the spacers, put the inner cover in until nice straight comb is established. Once you have good comb patterns established on the bars the inner cover is removed and the spacers are inserted to maintain the bee space and restore the advantages of the TBH. We are borrowing the Lang type frame placement temporarily. The second advantage of using spacers is the ability to close the hive without crushing bees. The spacers are inserted from the top pushing the bees down into the hive.
These shots below show the bottom board. I sat the body on a piece of ply wood, ripped 2 inch wide strips of whatever I had in the shop, framed the back and sides leaving 4 or so inches for a landing board, drew a line and cut the bottom, screwed the 2 inch strips in place and painted it.
Tips:
Don't worry if its not perfect the bees don't care.
Don't make the bars fit so tight or the weather will swell it shut.
Mark one side of the bars on top where you can always see it and always keep the bars tight to one side so the bees do not have to keep adjusting the bee space on the sides.
See working a TBH for more on this hive!
A special thanks to my wife Sylvia Piantanida and Silvia Mackey for the drawings and pictures on this site!
Copyright © 2002-2007 Gary Piantanida- Free for Private Use. - All Other Rights Are Reserved.